A Mulberry Evening

BY BANKS JESSER

I am asked regularly what I do for a living and I try to explain that I am not just in the business of selling wine but am a wine consultant. I am constantly researching and learning, thankful whenever the opportunity arises to educate the public about new and exciting wines. As I reflect on the great summer which came and went, I am very grateful for my friends who share my passion for learning about wine. I am thankful to have been invited to cohost a wine and food pairing evening to celebrate not only the harvest moon, but also the harvest of fruit from a gigantic mulberry tree. 

When I received the text asking if I would be interested in pairing some wines with a mulberry inspired dinner, I knew I would have my work cut out. I have very little experience with mulberries, except for a little moonshine my best friend and I stole from my parents’ liquor cabinet many moons ago. Turns out, mulberries are quite an interesting fruit. They are similar to blackberries in color and structure, with a similar taste profile; however, not as sweet. The biggest difference I found is how they are produced. If you have never seen a mulberry tree, please search one out. It is amazing how large these trees can grow. There must have been thousands of mulberries growing on this particular backyard tree. 

I’m always asked throughout the year which wine will pair best with a particular food. In order to make this particular decision, I needed to know which ingredients I am dealing with. My first question was, “Are your mulberries sour or sweet?” The best answer was, “Mostly sweet, but some, depending on ripeness, have a bit of a tang.” The vagueness and mystery of this fruit led me to pick equally obscure varietals to pair with the menu.  Sometimes, you need to climb completely out on a limb to pair wines with obscure food. One of the greatest parts of my job is introducing people to new, exciting wines which they may never have heard of. As each course was served at this table, I spoke briefly about each wine. I feel that talking about each wine as it is served helps to take any anxiety away from trying an unknown varietal.  

This was a group effort, with everyone contributing to the cause. Whether it was harvesting the mulberries, concocting mulberry-themed cocktails before dinner, preparing and serving the meal, pouring the wine, or just contributing humor and wit to the evening. Perhaps the best part of the evening was the merriment shared by watching an impromptu dance party kick-off under the harvest moon and the grand mulberry tree.  As in previous articles, I mention no names to protect the identities of those involved. You were there, and you know how great the evening was. If you weren’t there, hopefully, we can get together soon. Until then, I encourage you to pop some corks on new, interesting, wines, no matter how obscure the varietals may seem. You may just find your favorite.

FIRST COURSE: Mixed mulberry bruschetta

I picked Domaine St. Vincent Brut from New Mexico for this course. This crisp, dry sparkling made with 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir is produced by the Gruet Family of wines. Gruet winery is now a third-generation French winemaking family begun by Gilbert Gruet in 1984. After many years of highly successful champagne production in Bethon France, the family traveled to the US looking to branch out into new territory. While traveling, they found New Mexico soil was very similar to that of their home country. The dry, sandy soil and overall terroir of New Mexico is perfect for producing their world-class sparkling wines using traditional Champagne production methods. The green apple and mineral notes made this a perfect pairing with prosciutto, herb cheese, and mulberry bruschetta. 

SECOND COURSE: Green salad with mulberries and Champagne vinaigrette

I wanted a crisp, acidic white wine to pair with this salad. I also wanted to pick a wine no one had ever seen. That choice was Abbazia Di Novacella Kerner. Abbazia was founded in 1142 by The Augustinian Order of Canons Regular. The Augustinian Monks not only vow to chastity, obedience and poverty, they also work to support themselves as part of their community. Besides growing grapes and producing some of Italy’s finest wines, they also have a small school devoted to the study of viticulture. This wine is made from 100% Kerner grapes grown in the town of Novacella. The grapes are grown on gravel soils, and the wine is produced using stainless steel tanks. The wine has green apple on the nose with a hint of pineapple, finishing with a long, acidic finish. 

THIRD COURSE: Pork roast with mulberry barbecue sauce and Dauphinoise potatoes

My favorite choice for this course was Domaine Lafage Tessellae Old Vines. Jean-Marc and Eliane Lafage farm organic grapes with the majority growing on vines over 50 years old. Tessellae is a red blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre from the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France. This unique wine is aged in concrete tanks for 12 months, giving it a great mineral character. The ripe, black fruit character from Grenache grapes, mixed with a violet scent and spice from Syrah grapes made this a perfect pairing with the tanginess of the mulberry barbecue sauce. 

FOURTH COURSE: Mulberry galette and bourbon ice cream

For this course, I chose a unique Rose from Greece. While the origins of Greek winemaking can be traced back as far as 6,500 years, Gaia winery is one of the leaders in the modern Greek wine revolution. This wine is produced from 100% indigenous Agiorgitiko grapes which are macerated in cold stainless-steel tanks for 14 to 18 hours in order to extract the beautiful, rich color. The wine has notes of wild strawberry and cherry with a cool, refreshing finish.