Road Hog's Barbeque
BY SARAH ELKINS
Folks are starting to notice there’s a new wind blowing in White Sulphur Springs. If it’s been a while since you’ve driven past the entrance of The Greenbrier and down Main Street, you might be pleasantly surprised—though it may be difficult to pinpoint a specific source of the enthusiasm in the air. The sidewalks are new, storefronts are getting a fresh coat of paint, and the sounds of construction reverberate off the buildings. A front-end loader beeps as it reverses through a plot next to Howard’s Creek. An old tin awning tossed from scaffolding crescendos to the walk below. A circular saw whines in the distance where a restaurant is getting a new deck.
And, if you find yourself near the clock at the center of town thinking, progress smells vaguely like barbecue, you wouldn’t be wrong. There’s a smoker around the corner full of pork butts, ribs and brisket. The smoke billowing from the vents is local hardwood burning in its belly. John Guenther woke in the dark hours to start smoking this meat that, if he doesn’t keep pace, will sell out before dinnertime. He’s worn a path from the mouth of the smoker to the side entrance of Road Hog’s Barbeque, White Sulphur Springs’ newest restaurant.
Road Hog’s Barbeque opened in early December in the 1950s-style diner that operated as Bone’s Diner for thirty years. In the few months since its opening, Road Hog’s has quickly positioned itself as a hub of the community, but it didn’t happen overnight. Owners David Bostic and Clay Elkins brainstormed for a long time. Once they landed on the idea it was a no-brainer; White Sulphur Springs needed a barbecue joint. Heck, the entire region was lacking good barbecue.
Who better to bring the idea to fruition than the duo of David and Clay, career food-and-beverage guys with plenty of experience in the industry and a penchant for fun? The two met several years ago when David moved his family home to White Sulphur Springs and purchased Resort Home Services along with subsequent other businesses. Clay was the director of food and beverage at The Greenbrier Sporting Club. They collaborated on projects over the years, and when David began ruminating about opening a restaurant, he broached the idea with Clay. Coincidentally, Clay was already developing what would become The Local Café & Grocer. They formed a business partnership based on what they already knew was a good working relationship. Both bring a serious work ethic and down-to-earth attitude to the table, and it’s hard to say which of them likes coming up with the next big idea more.
Their concept for a laid-back but chef-driven barbecue restaurant was the perfect foil to The Greenbrier’s buttoned-up culinary aesthetic. So far, it appears their vision was spot on.
As for the inspiration behind the name Road Hog’s, you have to know a thing or two about old-time country and gospel music—the Statler Brothers, to be exact. The group rose to fame in the 1960s as an opening act and backup for Johnny Cash. The band, not so unlike David and Clay, liked a good joke. They formed an alter-ego slapstick band called Lester “Roadhog” Moran and the Cadillac Cowboys. You can find some of their performances on YouTube. In short, the band didn’t take themselves too seriously. Many of the Road Hog’s menu items take their names from the group’s sayings and songs.
With the concept and name decided, the next order of business was to renovate the historic diner. The tiny kitchen needed a complete overhaul and creating a space for dine-in service was a necessity. At the same time, David, who grew up in White Sulphur Springs, knew the community was emotionally attached to Bone’s Diner. If they changed the look too much his family would kill him, he joked. So, the renovation moved forward treading the fine line between positive change and respect for the Bone’s legacy. The result was the addition of a three-season deck with ceiling-mounted heaters and flat screen TVs. Rough-hewn tables maintain the relaxed vibe of the space.
The guys knew they needed to build a strong team to run the day-to-day operation and carry the vision they had for Road Hog’s Barbeque. That’s where Caleb Arwood came in. David knew the chef from his work in Virginia and convinced him to pursue his side-passion for barbecue. Caleb had experience in the world of barbecue competitions and had developed his own unique recipes. Case in point is his Apple Butter BBQ Sauce.
Caleb Arwood @ Road Hogs in White Sulphur Springs, WV.
A little Google research will reveal that most states throughout the southern U.S. define barbecue a little differently. Often the difference is in the sauce. There are vinegar-based sauces in North Carolina, mustard in South Carolina, mayonnaise in Alabama. What most people consider traditional barbecue sauce comes from Kansas City. In Texas, they baste or marinate the meat in sauce.
What about West Virginia? It’s hard to trace the mountain state’s barbecue heritage. Most of it has been borrowed from surrounding regions. But, if Caleb has anything to say on the matter, Apple Butter BBQ Sauce will put West Virginia on the barbecue map. Is it a coincidence the Golden Delicious apple was discovered in West Virginia?
Caleb isn’t the only secret weapon they convinced to hop the state line to help build a barbecue empire. Cody Steele, also a trained chef, moved to White Sulphur Springs for the chance to put his own spin on the traditional fare. He’s the guy who decided to put collard greens on a burger. You can thank him if you’re lucky enough to catch the Collard Green Patty Melt special. Or, just ask and maybe he’ll make you one.
Opening a restaurant with a three-season deck in winter seems like poor planning, but it wasn’t an accident. Both David and Clay know the restaurant business is tough and if they could throttle the start-up, hone the concept during the off season, they’d have a better product in the long run. And that’s what they did. Still, the response was more than they could have expected. Despite a quiet soft opening, word traveled, and the community rallied to welcome the new restaurant to town. In the earliest days, pork and brisket sold out within hours. They couldn’t smoke the meat fast enough to keep up with demands. And, as you know, smoking meat isn’t something that can be done quickly. Eventually, the guys caught their stride, but sellout days still happen.
There was another reason for the restaurant’s early success. A community hungry for something positive to take root on Main Street has ensured Road Hog’s Barbecue will stay around. The flood of 2016 ravaged the already depressed town, leaving a wake of physical and moral devastation. And, while residents still mourn the lives lost in the flood, the same water made way for something new to rise in White Sulphur Springs. Suddenly, the little town that languished in the shadow of The Greenbrier was garnering attention. Federal programs made investing in Main Street attractive, and new leaders, both elected and self-delegated, took up the fight, joining forces with those who had been doing the hard work of investing in the town even before the flood struck.
The support hasn’t been one-way. In February, Greenbrier County Schools shut down due to an overwhelming number of flu cases. The Road Hog’s crew mobilized within hours of the announcement to make free meals available to all school age children for the duration of closure. The community responded in turn by making generous donations to offset the restaurant’s expense. In the end, David and Clay decided to pay the donations forward to Snack Packs for Kids, a non-profit volunteer organization that provides supplemental food to children in White Sulphur Springs. That sort of mutual support of and from the community has been the secret ingredient in Road Hog’s recipes. It seemed nothing could slow the forward momentum.
Well, almost nothing. What no one could have anticipated was that a global pandemic would strike as the warm season approached. Just as the crew poised to remove the plexiglass windows on the deck and begin announcing plans for March Madness pools and watch parties, COVID-19 brought the entire world to a stupefied standstill. Like a row of dominoes falling, Road Hog’s upcoming events were deleted from the calendar one by one. No grand opening celebration with a special visit from the WVU Mountaineer. No Pig & Pour Festival. (Heard of it? Nope, it was never announced.) No Dandelion Festival. No Memorial Day concert. Construction of the outdoor firepit, music venue, umbrellaed patio all came to a screeching halt. The cornhole boards leaned against a wall on the empty deck.
Yet, with each disappointment and closed door, Road Hog’s Barbeque continues to pivot and come up with new ways to do business against the worst odds in modern history. Like many restaurants, they laid off most of their staff—eight people in total—at the beginning of the shutdown. Curbside takeout sustained the core operation for two months until outdoor dining was permitted. Now, with consistently good weather and a slow return to normal service, they’re bringing servers and kitchen staff back in. That’s good for everyone. Oh, and the cornhole boards are out, too.
So, if there was a good time to venture out and try a new restaurant, now is that time. (The restaurant is following all state and federal guidelines for foodservice.) Smoked meats available every day include pulled pork, ribs, chicken and brisket. No matter what style you prefer, their four house-made sauces are served on the side in keeping with their motto: “Nothing to hide. Sauce on the side.” You’re unlikely to find another Apple Butter BBQ Sauce anywhere nearby, so at least give it a try. The Hot Hog Sauce is perfect if you like a kick.
The guys haven’t skimped on sides either. The Cowboy BBQ Beans are practically a meal in themselves, loaded with bits of bacon, ham and spices. For a downhome taste that doesn’t require frills, there are brown beans and cornbread. And before you ask, yes, at Road Hog’s, mac and cheese is a vegetable. Caleb doesn’t like to talk about it, but there’s even a veggie burger on the menu.
Of course, they remembered to pay tribute to the past with The Big D Burger, a remake of a Bone’s Diner old favorite. Those who’ve been around long enough to know say they nailed it.
It wasn’t the start up David and Clay imagined for Road Hog’s, but their spirits are high and they have plenty of other plans up their sleeves. Perhaps you’ve caught wind of a brewery in the works. For now, mum’s the word.
In the meantime, visit RoadHogsBBQ.com to learn more about the restaurant. Like and follow them on Facebook and Instagram to see daily specials and their own brand of humor. More importantly, stop in and order something. The burnt ends wouldn’t be a bad place to start.
